Lombok — two weeks, two bases, and the start of six weeks in Indonesia
Tom grabbing some rail at Outside Ekas
Ben was thirteen. We had six weeks, three destinations, and the whole of the Indonesian swell season ahead of us. We started in Lombok — deliberately, carefully — because when you have that much time and that many waves to come, the smart move is to ease in slowly.
Six weeks in Indonesia was not a spontaneous decision. It was the kind of trip you plan for, save for, and think about for a long time before it actually happens. Three destinations — Lombok, Bali, and Rote — each chosen for a reason, each offering something different. Ben was thirteen and surfing better than ever. The golden era was in full swing.
We flew via KL as always. One practical note before anything else: do your Indonesian e-visa in advance. It takes minutes online and means you walk straight through on arrival without any hassle. Do not leave it until you get to the airport.
Week one — Ekas Bay
Ekas Bay sits on the south east tip of Lombok — remote, unhurried, and about as far from the tourist trail as you can get on an island that has one. We chose it deliberately as our starting point. It was prime Indonesian swell season and we knew bigger waves were coming further down the trip. Ekas gave us a place to find our rhythm, shake off the travel, and surf ourselves back into form before things got more serious.
We stayed at Ekas Surf Resort for the week. Clean, comfortable, well run — and crucially, they had a boat. This matters more than you might think. When your shoulders have taken enough for one day but your thirteen year old still has energy for another session, being able to put him on the resort boat and watch him head back out without you is exactly what you need.
Ben on his backhand at Outside Ekas
Ekas Bay — the breaks
Ekas Beach Break - A sheltered, beautiful bay with gentle right-breaking waves peeling over a calm lagoon — waist deep at most. One of the best places in Indonesia to push a child into their first reef-adjacent waves while still getting something out of it yourself. Safe, forgiving, and endlessly patient with a learner. Also a great kitesurfing bay if that's your thing.
Inside Ekas - A fun A-frame that works for pretty much everything — shortboards, mals, longboards, bodyboards. On a low to mid tide it runs for 150m in both directions. The right hander is the better of the two in our view — the left can be a bit soft and fat. When a bigger swell arrives there's a proper barrelling section on the inside that's worth having. The resort boat gets you there without the paddle.
Outside Ekas - A powerful, long hollow left that breaks under a cliff face and is not for the faint hearted. Experienced surfers only — expect a steep drop, a fast wall, and multiple sections when it's cooking. The upside is that when the swell comes in most people stay at Inside, which means Outside is considerably less crowded. Well worth it if you have the ability to handle it.
What makes Ekas particularly good for surf parents is that you don't have to choose between your session and theirs. The beach break and Inside Ekas give younger surfers everything they need, while Outside gives the parent a proper wave of their own. Everyone gets what they came for.
We surfed Inside Ekas most of the time and both enjoyed the right hander considerably more than the left. When the swell arrived and Outside started working I spent most of my time out there. Ben meanwhile was in his element — picking his own waves, staying out long after I'd called it a day, using the resort boat for late afternoon sessions when my body had had enough.
Outside Ekas
An unexpected reunion
One morning at Ekas I walked out and found myself standing next to a familiar face. Mark — one half of the Australian couple we'd met entirely by chance at Telo Island Surf House — was staying nearby at Heaven on a Planet, a place that sat right in front of the wave and offered considerably more luxury than our setup. It wasn't in our budget, but it sounded excellent. We shared some waves and picked up exactly where we'd left off.
And then, by pure coincidence, another familiar face — Adam, Tom and Theo, old friends from the UK, also making their way through Lombok on a surf trip. Suddenly a father and son trip had an extended family around it. The surf world is small in the best possible way.
Theo enjoying the Lombok surf
Week two — Selong Belanak and Mawi
After a week at Ekas we moved up the coast to Selong Belanak, basing ourselves at Surya Lombok for the second week — centrally located, comfortable, with genuinely helpful hosts who arranged scooter hire so we could move around easily. Kuta was about twenty five minutes by bike and worth the ride — there are surf shops in town if you need hardware, boards, or anything you've forgotten or broken along the way.
One note of caution: the track down to Mawi is a dirt road and after rain it can get sketchy, particularly if you're not used to riding a bike. Take it carefully.
Mawi — the wave that rewards patience
Mawi - Lombok
Mawi — how it changes with size
Head high and below - The surf peaks into an A-frame breaking right and left. The right provides a fast, perfect barrel that you can tuck into and pull out of before the reef gets shallow on the inside. This is the one to hunt on a manageable swell — find it at this size and you'll have one of the best waves in Lombok.
Well overhead and above - The right disappears and the left takes over completely, breaking further out on the reef. At this size it's a different wave entirely — expect a quick drop and a committed bottom turn halfway down the face just to keep up with it. More serious, more rewarding, and considerably more committing.
Mawi is also simply a great place to spend a day regardless of conditions. There are warungs right there at the beach — Nasi Goreng, cold coconuts, fresh fruit — and staying for a sunset beer watching the last waves of the day roll through is one of those simple pleasures that makes a surf trip feel complete.
Moving to Mawi was the right call. The wave was more challenging than Ekas and all the better for it. I could see Ben's surfing improving session by session — more comfortable on the reef, better at reading sets, more decisive on the drop. The golden era, in full swing.
Other waves worth knowing about
More breaks in the area
Selong Belanak Beach -A long, beautiful sandy beach with a forgiving sand-bottom wave that's perfect for building confidence. Great for younger surfers working on their pop-ups and green wave timing. Not a long ride but a lovely setting and exactly the right wave for a rest day or for easing someone into it gently.
Tanjung Aan - An A-frame left and right in a stunning bay with a long sandy beach that begs to be lounged on. Works for all levels but particularly good as a longboarding wave at waist to chest high — a nice wall, relaxed atmosphere, and the kind of session that reminds you why you travel to surf.
Gerupuk — Outside Right - A right-hand reef break at the opening of the bay with a shifty peak out back that gets heavy with size, and a fast inside section that steepens up nicely down the line. Expect a committed drop. A good option when Inside breaks are getting crowded or you fancy something with a bit more bite.
Gerupuk — Outside Left - Further out than Outside Right and rarely surfed — which is its main appeal. Open to the full Indian Ocean swell it offers a steep take off into a short barrel on smaller days. One warning: it closes out on a sharp shallow reef so make sure you know how to pull out through the back before you commit. Worth watching the forecast for the right window.
Gerupuk — Don Don - The most accessible of the Gerupuk breaks — just a couple of minutes by boat from the village. A peaky A-frame going both ways with long rides and proper shoulders that bend around the reef. Fun, performance-friendly, and a good workout for the legs. One more thing — sit in the lineup and look over your shoulder at the hill behind. It's shaped exactly like a turtle. The locals call it Kame — Japanese for turtle — and once you've seen it you can't unsee it.
For parents with younger surfers: Ekas is one of the best introductions to reef surfing in Indonesia — safe beach break, forgiving inside wave, resort boat for easy access, and proper waves for the parent alongside. Save Mawi for when they're ready for something with more bite. Selong Belanak beach is a brilliant option for a rest day surf or for building confidence between bigger sessions.
The practical bits
Getting there - Fly via KL to Lombok — do your Indonesian e-visa online in advance
Week 1 base - Ekas Surf Resort — clean, comfortable, great food, resort boat included
Splash out option - Heaven on a Planet, Ekas — right in front of the wave, more luxurious
Week 2 base - Surya Lombok, Selong Belanak — central, comfortable, scooter hire arranged
Best for kids - Ekas Beach Break, Inside Ekas right hander, Selong Belanak beach
Best for parents - Outside Ekas on a good swell, Mawi when it's on, Gerupuk breaks
Other waves - Tanjung Aan, Gerupuk Outside Right, Outside Left, Don Don
Getting to Mawi - Dirt road track — take care after rain
Surf shops - Kuta — hardware, boards, wax, leashes if needed
Swell season - April to early November — prime time for Indonesian swells
Getting around - Scooter hire — essential for week 2, Surya Lombok will arrange it
Watch out - Learner surfers being pushed into waves beyond their ability is increasing all over Indonesia. There's a big market in teaching backpackers to surf — understandably — but it can be genuinely dangerous, particularly at Inside Ekas and the left at Mawi where people on massive boards can cause real problems. Be aware of your surroundings and pick your spot accordingly.
Respect the locals - Be respectful to local surfers and mindful of your behaviour in the water. They know these breaks better than anyone and can offer great advice on conditions and where to go. Treat them well and they'll look after you.
Breakfast at Driftwood
Where to eat near Selong Belanak
Driftwood Cafe - Great for breakfast — excellent coffee and smoothie bowls
Three Sisters - Lovely homemade dumplings
Klub Kembali - Great food, the Rendang burger is a must. Good cocktails and Canard craft beer.
At Mawi - Warungs at the beach - Nasi Goreng, cold coconut, fresh fruit — stay for a sunset beer
In Kuta (25 min by bike) - Krnk Bar and Restaurant Worth the ride in
Cantina Mexicana - The fish tacos in particular. Excellent.
Many more options in Kuta — worth an evening out to explore
Next: Part 2 of six weeks in Indonesia — Bali. More waves, more of the golden era, and the island that needs no introduction but deserves an honest one.
